morning in Manhattan................from P

While anchored in Manasquan inlet on the north coast of NJ we were invited over to a fellow anchoree's Caliber 47 for drinks. Wayne hailed us on the VHF and motored his dinghy over to pick us up - cruisers are like that. I had a big wad of cheese and crackers in my mouth when Wayne mentioned that he has often anchored between the statue of liberty and Ellis Island. Nawww, I thought, you can't do that since 9/11. Well, maybe you can - because we did it! We spent last night rolling in the wake of the huge Staten Island Ferry Boats (which apparently never stop running) as we lay in bed and gazed up through our V-berth hatch at Miss Liberty. We were smack-dab in between Liberty Island and Ellis Island. Except for the constant boat wake, it is a perfect anchorage. When the sun sets she lights up - all velvet green except for the golden torch which gives off a perfect amber glow. Incredible. Ellis Island was a few hundred yards to the north of us - very dark and spooky at night. I have never understood why it has not been made into a tourist-friendly shrine to all the immigrants who came through. Behind Ellis Island rose the awesome skyline of Manhattan. We kept wondering when the Coast Guard, or "New York's finest" might call in an air strike or something, but we stayed just outside the white bouys surrounding miss liberty and spent the night at anchor hassle free.

Our view to the south, and to the north. Wow.

Yet another helpful acquaintance named Eric (who ran the mooring ball launch boat at Atlantic Highlands Marina behind Sandy Hook NJ) told me that I should purchase a little book called "Eldridge Tide and Pilot Book" because it contained the local information regarding the flow and strength of currents in the New York harbor, adjoining tributaries, and as it turns out most of the north-east coastal waters. It was the best twelve bucks I have ever spent. The currents are extremely fast, tricky, and nonsensical from The Battery at lower Manhatten all the way up past Roosevelt Island, through Hell Gate and up into lower Long Island Sound, which was our intended route. After studying Eldridge last night, K and I decided to leave our cool anchor spot no later than 5:30 AM this morning in order to catch the strongest part of the current running up the East River through Hell Gate. Unreal. I have canoed through level 3 and level 4 rapids on several rivers in the hills of Virginia. I was reminded of this as I shot the East River rapids in a 37 foot sailboat. My engine was only turning 1,800 to 2,000 RPM and several times we hit 11.5 knots. Once we touched 12 knots over ground! This is how I should wake up every morning - Empire State Building to my left, a long rip-rap wall (Roosevelt Island) just 20 feet or so to my right, a tug pushing a barge coming hard ahead, the helm feeling as though it has a mind of its own as the current washes us along at 9 to 12 knots. I love NY!

The past 24 hours has provided a few sights that I will never forget: K sailing Senara through NY harbor under genoa only, dodging barges, ferries, and ships; sitting under the statue of liberty on our boat as the sky darkened and her lights shone brighter; riding the current up the East River along the lower east side of Manhatten as the sun rose and NYC was coming alive for the workday. What a trip. Thank you Wayne and Eric - two more people to add to the growing list of "trip angels" who have helped us immeasurably as we continue on.